No Passport Required
- Virtual Traveller 86
- May 24, 2020
- 4 min read
Day Four: Country No. 23
LITHUANIA
Arrival Time: 7:27am
“Blame it on the Baltic sea breeze or the almost-endless midsummer days: Lithuania has an otherworldly quality.” In the southernmost of the Baltic states, beaches are spangled with amber whilst in the rest of country are lakes, forests, and pancake-flat farmland.
Vilnius
Flying from Slovenia took almost five and a half hours although two hours of this was spent awaiting a transfer in Frankfurt. Lithuania’s capital city Vilnius is compact enough to explore on foot. A “city of churches and baroque finery, Vilnius’ cobblestoned charms” are popular with tourists.
1. Gediminas' Tower is the remaining part of Vilniu’ Upper Castle. Originally wooden, the first brick castle was completed in 1409 by Grand Duke Vytautas. The three-floor tower was rebuilt in 1933 by Polish architect Jan Borowski.
2. View of city, including the cathedral and belfry.
3. Cathedral of St Stanislav and St Vladislav. Divorced from its freestanding belfry, this neo-classical cathedral is said to be a national symbol and the city’s most instantly recognisable building. In front is a statue of Gediminas, founder of Vilnius.
4. The Presidential Palace, located in Vilnius Old Town.
5. & 6. Within the inner courtyard of the Presidential Palace.
Republic of Užupis (Country no.24?)
“Laden with love-locks and traversed by a steady flow of visitors, the small bridge crossing over the Vilnia River in Lithuania’s capital, Vilnius, could be any in Europe. But this bridge is actually a border – albeit with no passport control – to a ‘country’ within a country: the quirky, creative, self-declared Republic of Užupis.” (Gemma Graham, Lonely Planet).
The 1949 film Passport to Pimlico is “a mixture of political satire and heartfelt humour.” (bfi.org.uk). And although the self-declared Republic of Užupis came about under a very different set of circumstances than those portrayed in the Ealing Studio’s comedy, I can’t help but think about the film as I explore the streets of Užupis.
For centuries this area has been the traditional home of craftspeople. Sadly during Soviet rule in the 20th century the area declined and became a place to very much avoid. However, after Lithuania gained independence from the USSR in 1990, artists who had been stifled under Soviet rule took advantage of Užupis’ bargain rents and began to make the district their home. On 1st April 1997 (April Fools Day...coincidence?) a group of residents in the neighbourhood came together and declared independence from Lithuania, renaming the area the Republic of Užupis. There followed a constitution, a flag, anthem and even an army - be it of just 11. Their aim? To promote artistic expression. And although the enclave is not legally recognised it seems that most of Vilnius’ residents have embraced their independent spirit.
1. On the main bridge into the neighbourhood stands this sign declaring entrance into the Republic. Užupis means ‘beyond the river’.
2. Unveiled on Užupis’ ‘Independence Day’ in 2002 this trumpeting angel has become the symbol of the ‘republic’ and stands high on a pillar in the main square.
3. LOVE this!
4. As you wander the area you come across a whole range of art.
5. The Užupis Constitution was drafted by founders Romas Lileikis and Tomas Čepaitis. The document is displayed on a series of mirrored plaques along a wall on Paupio gatvė. There are 38 articles and three mottos. These range from the sensible, eg. Article 2, ‘Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof’; to the more bizarre, such as Article 12, ‘A dog has the right to be a dog’. Next to the constitution is the image which can be seen on the official flag of Užupis. “The open hand with a circular hole in the palm is said to represent openness.” (Gemma Graham).
6. ‘Love-locks’ can be seen throughout the area. I have also seen them in Prague and Florence. The idea being that by attaching a love lock/padlock it symbolises a love that cannot be broken. People often etch their initials and/ or a significant date into the padlock. Once attached to the railing the padlock’s key is thrown into the river below. It is a practice that continues to divide opinion. Concerns about the structural integrity of historic bridges, like the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, has resulted in authorities removing them (over 5000 removed from Ponte Vecchio).
7. More art.
8. Love-locks are attached along both sides of the main bridge into the neighbourhood.
A part of me loves the idea of a break-away ‘republic’. It may not be ‘legally’ recognised, but whether founded as an artistic expression or a political statement the ‘Republic of Užupis’ definitely gets my vote of approval.
Leaving Lithuania: 9:59am
Sources:
“Creativity, Cuisine and a Constitution: Exploring Vilnius’ Bohemian Užupis District; Gemma Graham, 7 June 2017 article: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/articles/creativity-cuisine-and-a-constitution-exploring-vilnius-bohemian-uzupis-district
For more information on Užupis see: http://uzhupisembassy.eu/
Google Earth
Google Streetview
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