Nope, Not That Antigua
- Virtual Traveller 86
- May 12, 2020
- 3 min read
Day Three: Country No.15
GUATEMALA Arrival Time: 12:57pm
The flight from Auckland takes at best 21 hours, changing planes in Houston. After New Zealand, Central America is probably No.2 on my list of places to visit. Guatemala is home to volcanoes, rainforests and ancient Mayan sites.
Guatemala City
Guatemala City is the capital - although nearby Antigua (no not the one in the Carribean) used to be. The capital is a city of extremes where “glass skyscrapers tower over sprawling slums and shoeless widows peddle cigarettes to designer-clad clubbers.” “The once decayed heart of the city, the centro histórico, has been revitalized and streets here have been pedestrianized, buildings restored and new cafés and bars have opened.” Over the past century the city has seen much growth. This escalated “in the 1970s and 1980s as waves of internal refugees sought an escape from the civil war in the countryside. Economic migrants continue to flock to the capital, the population explosion filling once-uninhabited deep ravines with precarious new barrios.” (all above quotes are from the Rough Guide).
On 6a Calle and opposite the Parque Central (Town Square) is the stately Palacio Nacional de Cultural, which I was able to explore by myself. The town square dates back, in part, to 1776. The interior of the palace, including courtyard, is beautiful. I love the bronze sculpture.
Wandering around the streets of the old part of the city I stumbled on a couple of art exhibitions, one at Centro Municipal de Arte y Cultura. As you explore the city you can’t help but notice the impressive hills and mountains that lie in the surrounding area. Near Guatemala city are three volcanoes, Volcán de Pacaya, Volcán Agua and Volcán Acatenango. Not far from the centre is the Iglesia del Cerrito del Carmen, which you can see below.
Antigua
West of the city and situated in a highland valley is former capital Antigua, which contains several preserved Spanish colonial buildings. According to the Rough Guide it is “one of the Americas’ most enchanting colonial cities. In its day this was one of the great cities of the Spanish empire, serving as the administrative centre for all of Central America and Mexican Chiapas.” Efforts are being made to preserve Antigua’s ancient architecture. The city became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.
Catedral San José is next to the Plaza Mayor. Originally built around 1541, it has suffered several earthquakes throughout its history. The “first church building was demolished in 1669. The cathedral was rebuilt and consecrated in 1680.” (Google Earth). In the ruins of the previous church you find some amazing carved stonework.
Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales sits adjacent to the cathedral and is now a museum.
(Seen in the 3 right hand side photos below). pictures on the left hand side below are of the other two streets that surround Plaza Mayor.
The countryside surrounding Antigua is stunning and the three volcanic cones loom large. The valley is dotted with small villages and I paid a quick visit to San Juan del Obispo. Iglesia San Juan del Obispo is painted with warm orange and red patterns. It sits in the main square with its grand fountain painted pink, looking out at Volcán de Agua and lush green hills. Truly a lovely place.
Guatemala may have a turbulent history and clearly life is far from easy for many. However it is a beautiful country and one I would happily visit.
Departing Guatemala: 3:23pm
I’m having great fun doing this virtual tour of the world. However there is a serious reason behind it. Due to the current coronavirus pandemic there is less opportunity for vital fundraising to take place. UK charities rely heavily on donations and many are now facing the threat of closure. So I am raising funds for The Scoliosis Association UK (SAUK) and for the NHS Charities. You can read my reasons for choosing these in an earlier post. Any donation is gratefully received.
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